YOKOMO MD1.0开箱组装分享
大家好。我好久没来论坛了。账号密码都差点忘了。前几天就拿到了车子。一直没有时间开箱组装
今天直播一天将车子组装完毕了。
简单的分享一下组装的过程中碰到的一些情况。
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差速器：小伞齿中间用3.0的钻头通一通。让它在插销里活动更顺。大齿就不需要通了。差速油原配的是5000号。由于我玩滑地较多。所以空油。暂时没有装油。原本的o圈就比较紧了。
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由于后波箱的起初组装时。只有小齿两侧的螺丝可以固定。所以将波箱顶住平面再上紧螺丝。保证尽可能左右两片波箱可以水平。
另外马达座是可以左右对换的。而波箱内可以另外购买一个小齿和轴。做到4齿传动。原装是3齿。区别就是马达的转动方向不同。
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下摆臂的两头螺丝上紧时要注意距离。否则两个孔的距离和摆臂有差距。就会挤压球头。导致悬挂活动不顺。
摆臂为碳纤维。的确很漂亮
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md1.0后面波箱+悬挂+油压架+电调支架+车壳柱固定架。整合成一起后。很简洁干净。这车的后面一整份东西很有机械感。目前波箱的设定均为说明书设定。（除差速无油）
这台车组装头。尾。再上底盘。
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滑轨由原来的双层轴承改成了单层轴承。滑轨轨道为圆形弧度。在灰尘比较严重的场地玩耍的车友要注意及时清洁滑轨轨道。保持干净。避免过多磨损。这次滑轨的松紧调教改用了移动第一颗轴承。来调滑轨松紧。
上摆臂这里的组装需要耐心和动手能力较强的玩家用心去组装。
因为前后两个球头的距离如果过大过小都会导致上摆臂活动受阻。
尽可能固定内六角球头后。下方用扳手或者套筒去扭紧螺母。上当球头不可动。否则容易摩擦移位。
优点：调caster很方便。3颗螺丝松了。直接整份前后移动。
不足：动手能力不足的玩家。就容易将上摆臂装不顺。
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暂时。暂时。暂时。按说明书装好后。滑轨+4mm垫片。转向拉杆孔位换下面。caster前移。暂时阿克曼是这样。轮毂推荐6。切一点转向拉杆可以用5。注意磨避震和转向拉杆。细心的用5。新手推荐6。
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谈谈我组装后的感受。
整车干净简洁没有太多余的东西。合理化。特别是后面整份。我特别的喜欢和欣赏。感觉像艺术品。好感度很高。
目前新车已经都比较完善了。不需要diy或者改装了。已经越来越完善了。
全车不是碳纤维就是金属。除前后杯和上摆臂。其他基本算full op。
金属的前后杯Op件我暂时还没试。刚组装好。周末试车后。下周再装再试。
说明书设定。轴距257。轮距F204 R195。camber F5 R1。toe in 1度。油F300 R200。弹簧F177FA R 179RS。
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明天装电子设备再聊吧。 睿总https://app.rcfans.com/public/emotion/face_043.png 重点是这个1.0，就这品牌这尿性，等着割韭菜到100.0吧https://app.rcfans.com/public/emotion/face_010.png 逆天的上摆臂https://app.rcfans.com/public/emotion/face_umm.png qichao_cham 发表于 2022-10-12 05:40
睿总
好多年没上论坛 HD7 发表于 2022-10-12 07:23
重点是这个1.0，就这品牌这尿性，等着割韭菜到100.0吧
？？？你说说那个厂子车子没有名字的，是不是rmx也是从1.0割到3.0啊，3r是不是从d3割到d5啊...出新车就出新车，又没有逼着你买，喜欢的自然会买，产品线更多样化不是好事？ 改4齿。马达座换边。
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