OFNA的磨车文章

What Is The Best Way To Break-in An Engine? What Type Of Fuel Should I Use?


We recommend Byron's fuel at 20% nitro content to run-in (break-in) the engine. The best way to break-in the engine is to follow the steps below:
Step 1. The first few runs of your new engine are critical. Once your engine starts, place the car on a stand so that its wheels can't touch the ground. Let the engine idle at low rpm for a few minutes (two or three minutes will do), then shut the engine down and let it cool. During this procedure, it's also important that the piston not be at the top of the cylinder while the engine is cooling. Part of what's taking place during break-in is that the engine's mating parts are being heat-cycled, which means they are expanding when the engine is hot and contracting when it cools. Heat cycling stabilizes the metal and allows mating parts to fit better against each other. Keeping the piston out of the upper portion of the cylinder (which is smaller in diameter than the lower portion in order to create a better seal during combustion) will allow the cylinder to properly contract as it cools-without interference from the piston. To figure out where the piston is in relation to the cylinder, just turn the flywheel-it will become difficult to turn when the piston is at the top of the cylinder, where the fit between the piston and cylinder is its tightest. Just turn the flywheel until the piston is in the middle of its "easy turning" part. Repeat the above steps three or four more times.

Step 2. After you've heat-cycled your engine, you can finally put it on the track. But don't get too excited yet - you must run it with a very rich high-speed needle setting. Lots of blue smoke should be coming from the exhaust, and the engine should sound "blubbery." During this procedure, it's vital that you avoid prolonged use of full throttle, which could strain the engine. You should instead "blip" the throttle as you drive the car to avoid spending too much time in one particular rpm range. Run the engine using these settings for three or four tankful's of fuel, allowing the engine to cool in between runs.

Step 3. Once you've put about six to eight tanks of fuel through the engine (as outlined above), it's time to begin leaning the high-speed needle and making some power! Begin by leaning the high-speed needle (by turning it inward, or clockwise) by about one-hour (if you imagine the needle as a clock face, one full turn of the needle would equal 12 hours). Run the car for a minute or so, then bring it back in and lean the needle by another one hour increment. Repeat this process until the engine begins to achieve good rpm, but it shouldn't be allowed to "scream" quite yet. The engine should still be creating lots of blue smoke from its exhaust. Before you achieve that screaming race setting, we recommend that you run your engine for a few more tankful's in this "almost race" setting. Once you get the needle set to where your engine is making good rpm, richen it (by turning the needle counter-clockwise) by about a quarter of a turn-this is your final setting.

Step 4. Once you've found a good setting for the high-speed needle that allows the engine to make good power yet still push plenty of blue smoke from the exhaust (especially when the car exits a turn), it's time to set the low-end needle and the idle-stop screw. For now, set the idle-stop screw so that the engine will idle at a moderate rpm without stalling. Bring the engine up to operating temperature by driving it for a few minutes. Now stop the car and listen to the engine's idle speed. If the engine idles fast but then slows down in just a few seconds, the low-speed needle is probably set too rich. Lean the low-speed needle (by turning it clockwise in one-hour increments) until, after running a few more laps, the idle stays high for about twenty seconds or so when you stop the car. Once you've done this, use the idle-stop screw to make the final adjustment of the idle speed. Setting your engine's idle speed isn't a contest to see how low you can get it without stalling the engine! Your goal when setting the idle should be to allow the engine to run at moderate rpm without the clutch being engauged whatsoever. Your car should be able to sit at a standstill when idling. If you have to hold the brake, the idle is too high. If you have to blip the throttle to prevent stalling the engine, the idle it too low. Afterthought: Nitro powered R/C vehicles can be tons of fun, or they can cause tons of frustration. The difference between success or failure lies with the break-in process. If you follow these steps, have patience, and use your noggin, you're assured of success. Rushing through the break-in procedure or worse, forgetting it altogether, is a recipe for disaster. Tuning your engine is the hardest part of nitro racing. But once you've learned how the carburetor works, and which screw does what, it will all become second nature. So when you're running your car, you'll always know exactly what to adjust to gain the highest level of performance possible.

[ 本帖最后由 诺亚 于 2006-3-15 09:28 编辑 ]

翻译的太好了！！

搂主的英文好棒啊，谢谢您为我们翻译

谢谢，又有新东西进脑袋了。

鸡肠,看不懂

楼主翻译一下好吗?

那就贡献些时间，给大家服务一次吧！
－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－－

磨合引擎最好的办法怎样？我应该选择哪种燃料？
我们推荐使用拜伦20%来磨合引擎。最佳的磨合请按照以下步骤进行：

第一步：一个新引擎的前几次运行是很关键的。在开始之前，将车悬空放置，车轮离开地面。先让引擎处于低转速的怠速状态几分钟（一般2～3分钟），然后停下引擎，让它冷却。在此冷却过程中，让活塞不要停在气缸顶部也是很重要的。磨合过程中，引擎配件始终处于循环加热中，意味着反复的热胀冷缩。循环加热过程有助于加强金属的稳定性，使配件更好的互相适应。使活塞离开气缸的上半部分（为了运行中良好的气密性，该部分的直径比下半部分的要小）可以让气缸在冷却过程中正常的收缩而不至于受活塞的影响）。要判断活塞在气缸中的相对位置，可以试着转动飞轮，当感觉较难转动时，活塞在气缸顶部，在这个位置感觉是活塞和气缸接触最紧密。继续转动飞轮，直到活塞处于“易转动”的中间位置。重复以上步骤3～4次。

第二步：在循环加热你的引擎后，你可以让车上路了，但不要兴奋得太早――你必须让车在高速油针富油的状态下运行。在排气口中应该有大量的蓝烟喷出，引擎也应该是发出“滋润声”。在此过程中，避免长时间的轰满油门是非常重要的，因为这样容易让引擎过度劳损。你驾车时应该轻点油门，以免太多时间的高转速运行。让引擎在此状态下烧完3～4满箱的油，同时保持引擎间歇地冷却。

第三步：当你烧完6～8箱油后（按以上说明），就该开始调低高速油针，增加引擎能量了。先调低（向里或顺时针）大概1小时角度的高速油针（假设油针为时钟表面，一整圈为12小时）。让车跑动几分钟，然后让它停下，继续调低1小时的位置。重复这一过程，直到引擎开始达到一个较好的转速，但不要让引擎处于“尖叫”的状态。排气口此时应该还是排出大量的蓝烟。在出现那种尖叫状态前，我们建议你让引擎先在“临界设置”烧完几箱油。当你的油针调到可以使引擎获得良好转速时，调高（逆时针旋转）四分之一转――这就是你的最终设定。

第四步：当你找到高速油针的一个良好设置后，引擎可以获得较大的能量，也会继续排放大量的蓝烟（特别是当车出弯时），此时就该调低速油针和怠速螺丝了。现在，调整怠速螺丝到引擎保持中等转速但又不会死火的状态。让引擎运行几分钟，达到工作温度，然后停车，听引擎的怠速声。如果引擎怠速先快后过几秒又慢，则低速油针可能设置得高了。调低低速油针（顺时针一小时刻度），直到跑了几圈后停下来怠速能保持大概20秒左右的较高转速。做完这些后，用怠速螺丝作最后的怠速调教。设置引擎怠速不是比谁能将引擎调到最慢而不死火。你设置怠速的目标是让引擎保持中速而不让离合器有负担。你的车应该能够在怠速时停住。如果你不得不用上刹车，那就是怠速太高。

试想，油动遥控车可以带来许多欢乐，也可能带来不少的挫折。成功与失败的不同就在于引擎的调教过程了。如果你按照以上步骤，多些耐心，多谢仔细，你就可以成功。跳过磨合过程或更糟的操作，忘了这一切，你就拿到了灾难的处方了。调教引擎是油动最难的一部分。但你一旦掌握了化油器是如何工作的，哪个螺丝是起什么作用的，那一切就变得很自然了。所以，当你驾着你的爱车，你就会知道怎样调教来使它达到最佳的表现。

[此贴子已经被作者于2004-7-2 11:43:34编辑过]

你是当翻译的吧?

好东东,楼主辛苦了哦

楼住强！