转帖：漂移车调车方法 [本贴已过时，请勿跟贴，详情请见一楼第一行]

注：本贴已过时，请移步RC漂移车调车方法（中文翻译版）：http://bbs.rcfans.com/viewthread.php?tid=249434





英文的哦：http://www.drccentral.com/old/rc-drift-setup.html

内容如下：

RC Drift SetUp

Overview
In writing this, we set out tocreate a basic tuning guide for the community.  We own vehicles thatare highly tunable to suit numerous course conditions and drivingstyles.  Why not take advantage of this?  Because most of the time wedon’t know where to start.  Keep in mind that most tuning is to suit adrivers preference.  Some like it twitchy, some like it smooth.  Whatworks for one, might not work for another. Tuning is a complex task,and when changing one thing, you often affect another.  This setupguide was created as a quick reference, and runs on general cases.  Formore physics behind the setup, please check outhttp://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/.  Please keep in mind this is awork in progress, and we’re not perfect.  If you see an error, or wouldlike to add to it, please PM us so that we may update the guide  
General
While setting our cars upfor drifting, we are looking for that perfect balance between slip andgrip.  We want our cars to drift through the corners, but we also wantcontrol of that drift.  We tune grip in or out by changing the way thechassis transfers weight i.e more grip up front equates to moresteering.  This is the basis of chassis tuning.  All adjustmentsrequire a properly working car that is properly set up.  By properlyworking, we mean no bad bearings, nothing binding, etc.  By properlysetup, we mean droop is equal side to side (not necessarily front toback), ride height is equal side to side, camber is equal side to side,etc.  Changes should be made one at a time so that any change can benoted.  It is best to start with the kit setup and work from there. Believe it or not, RC companies do put R&D into this and providethe most beneficial all-around setup for kits.  
Chassis
Most chassis’ have aftermarketchassis’ in the form of graphite tubs, or two-deck carbon fiberchassis’.  These chassis’ are stiffer than their OEM counterpart.  Dueto their stiffness, they are typically more sensitive to setup changes,and are more suited for high-grip surfaces i.e. carpet tracks where theincrease in grip due to chassis flex is undesirable.  The flex apparentin tub chassis’ provides more grip and is more beneficial for asphalt. The benefits of a flexible chassis has been noticed by topmanufacturers, and incorporated into their carbon fiber chassisdesigns.  Associated Electronics incorporated it into their TC4 andHudy has incorporated this into their Xray cars, seen as Multi-Flextechnology.
Chassis weight also plays a large role.  Of course, electronics havea large role in this, but in general, tub chassis’ are heavier thantheir carbon fiber counterpart.  Heavy cars will tend to be lesstwitchy, and less prone to being upset over bumps.  That said, theywill also be slower through transitions.  Lighter chassis’ tend to hopand chatter more easily.
Things to adjust when your car is UNDERSTEERING (no  particular order)

• TIRES/CAMBER (for Yokomo drift rings)
  • More  camber in the front
  • Less  camber in the rear
• DROOP
  • Increase  droop in the rear
• CASTER
  • Decrease  caster angle
• ACKERMAN
  • Increase  Ackerman angle
• TRACK WIDTH
  • Decrease  in the front
  • Decrease  in the rear to account for low speed understeer
  • Increase  in the rear to account for high speed understeer
• DIFFERENTIAL
  • For  Ball Diffs
    • Loosen  front ball diff
    • Tighten  rear ball diff
  • For  Front One-Ways
    • Tighten  rear ball diff
  • For  Center One-Ways
    • Loosen  front ball diff
    • Tighten  rear ball diff
  • For  Rear Spool (or Direct Drive for Tamiya Fans)
    • Loosen  front ball diff
  • For  Front Spool (or Direct Drive for Tamiya Fans)
    • Tighten  rear ball diff
• ROLL CENTER/CAMBER LINKS
  • Adjust  inner camber link position more towards the center of the chassis i.e. longer  camber link, in the front
  • Adjust  camber link so that it is more level, in the front
• SHOCK POSITION
  • Lower  Shock Position
    • Move  inward towards the chassis on the front
    • Move  outward away from the chassis in the rear
  • Upper  Shock Position
    • Makeshock more laid down in the front (may be source of contention.  I knowin grip, laying it down more generally reduces body roll as the carturns.  However, drifting has less grips, so I think the moreprogressive feel of a laid down shock may give more grip, can someoneverify?)
    • Make  shock more vertical in the rear
• SPRINGS
  • Softer  springs in the front
  • Stiffer  springs in the rear
• SHOCK OIL/PISTONS
  • Thinner  oil in the front/Larger piston holes in the front
  • Thicker  oil in the rear/Smaller piston holes in the rear
• TOE
  • Front  Toe
    • More  toe-out
  • Rear  Toe
    • Less  toe-in
• ANTI-ROLL BAR
  • Thicker  anti-roll bar in the rear
  • Thinner  anti-roll bar in the front
• RIDE HEIGHT
  • Lower  ride height in the front
  • Higher  ride height in the rear

Things to adjust for OVERSTEER
Opposite of everything listed above!

HOW TO ADJUST SECTION
Tires
Alwaysthe first thing to look at. Even with a great setup, tires can ruinit.  For competitions, tirechoice is often controlled to level theplaying field and make it moreof a drivers competition.  In general,radials (rubber tires) offermore grip, while plastics offer less.

• Yokomo Drift Rings
  Withthese tires,camber should always be your first stop in gaining orloosing grip.  Ingeneral, more camber means more grip, as the majorityof the contactpatch become rubber.
• ABS Tires
  WithABS, many people say to run 0 camber. However, more experienceddriverswill tell you to have at least negative 0.5 degrees camber allaround.

Droop
Droopis often misunderstood andconfused with downstop settings.  Droop isthe measure of travel of thechassis from its static position, to itsmost extended position (seeFigure XX).  The downstop setting alters howmuch downtravel you’reA-arms will experience.  It is set by turning thescrew in the A-arm(see Figure XXX).  Therefore, altering ride-heightand the downstopseffect droop.  
Adding droop on one end willincrease grip on the other.  So, if youare experiencing lots ofoff-throttle under-steer, you can increaseyour reardroop.  Confused?  As you let go of the throttle, weightshiftsforward.  By allowing the rear of the chassis to travel moreupward(equates to more droop), you allow more weight to be transferredto thefront tires, giving more steering.  Droop can be a powerfulsetting, andif not properly set left to right (not necessarily frontto back), youcan end up with a chassis that does not handle equallyleft to right.
Caster
Casterdescribes the angle betweenthe king pin and the vertical (see FigureXXX).  It actually leans thetire in the direction of the turn.  Morecaster will lean the tire morein the direction of the turn.  This,along with camber effects thetires contact patch.  Too much or toolittle lean will minimize ormaximize the contact patch.  However, ingeneral, more caster willyield a smoother turning car, with lessinitial turn-in.  Less casterwill give you car with sharp turnin.  This is why you see manyoff-road cars with caster angles of up to25º.  Less initial turn-inmeans less looping out on loose dirt.  It isadjusted by changing outthe C-hubs in the front (most likely have to bepurchased separately).
Camber
See “Tires” section
Ackerman
Refersto the Ackerman angle,which is the angle difference between the wheelsas they turn-in.  Theinner wheel will always have to turn in more thanthe outer wheel.  Asyou turn in more and more, the difference betweenthese two anglesincrease.  This is usually adjusted on the steeringturnbuckleconnection on the front hub (see Figure XXX).  A more angledconnectionwill yield less Ackerman, and vice versa.  For low gripconditions, itis generally recommended to more Ackerman
Track Width
Refersto the width of thecar, measured from the outside of each wheel (seeFigure XXX).  Wideris better, right?  For stability, yes, sharp turnin, no.  A narrowfront track width will increase the front grip andsteering.   A narrowrear track width will increase steering on thefront end at low speeds,and increase grip at the rear at high speeds.
Differential

• Front One-Way: Just as described, thefront wheels are only allowed to turn one-way.  Aone-way bearing inthe diff prevents the tire from spinningbackward.  While on power,both front wheels get equal power (nodifferential action).  Off-power,the front wheels free spin on theirown accord.  This give high initialturn-in, and allows you to reallypull through the exit of a turn, asboth front wheels are applyingmaximum power to the ground.  Breakingbecomes an issue, as the natureof the one-way does not allow breakingto effect the front wheels.  Ineffect, its like yanking the e-brake ona car.  With out properattention, this causes the car to loop out mucheasier, and makes ittwitchier at speed.  Generally those who run afront one-way will run avery loose rear ball diff if not alreadyrunning a spool.
• Center One-Way:  Likethefront one-way, but only disconnects the front and rear wheels fromeachother.  A ball diff would still be used up front, so thereisdifferential action.  Yields a much milder initial turn-in, andbrakingis not as much of a concern.
• Ball differential:Typically run tighter up front than the rear.  Looser in thefronttranslates into better transitioning left to right, and looser intherear translates into less transitioning left to right.
• Spool(direct-drivefor the Tamiya fans!):  A locked differential. Literally, it’s a solidaxle.  Generally used in the rear fordrifting.  Typically, locking therear would cause an understeeringsituation as the inner wheel is notallowed to rotate slower through aturn.  However, with drifting,allowing both wheels to put equal powerto the ground allows the rearend to break loose easier.

  Written By Scotwithonly1t

Front one way vs. Ball Differential
   
Thereare various techniques which I have adopted for my style. Firstoff,consider that I run a front one-way differential, and a very tightrearball-diff. I would say that the output ratio is about 50:50.

Iwould first off say that when fully releasing the throttle at ageneralfast speed, a chassis equipped with a front one-way wouldinduce therear to swing out significantly during a steer in. Thesimultaneousactions of releasing the throttle (and allowing the rearto "lock up"),and steering into a turn, the initiation of the slide isapparent. Thisbehavior is normal for cars equpped with front one ways.Some will agreethat one-ways have an advantage for extremely complextechnical tracks,especially with short S turns. Another advantage isthat if needed tocorrect an angle assuming that you missed your idealpivot line of aturn, a driver with a one-way can hit the brake toswing the rear out inorder to correct an angle so that you cancomplete a hard corner ratherthan plowing into a wall. Although,initiating drifts by takingadvantage with a one-way, if not perfected,choppy drifts may be theresult. Car's with a front ball-diff tend tobehave more fluent duringdrifts, but unfortunately suffer fromundersteer as compared to a carwith a front one-way.

Other than inducing the drift by meansof throttle off/braking driftwith the front one-way, I usually powerover into turns. This is mydominant technique for long sweepers ofmedium turns. During the middrift, I pulse the throttle depending onhow much I need to break theABS from the surface or on how much I needto correct the angle. I willnever completely release the throttleunless a critical anglecorrection is needed.

I think we all knowthat excessive counter steering should be usedseldomly given that our4wd drivetrain minimizes the necessity ofextreme countersteer. I'venoticed that most of us countersteer fullywhen they prevent themselvesfrom spinning out during corners where thecar untered beyond the idealangle. Most times, drivers let the rear"steer itself".

Also check this post for more details into the theory of front one way vs. ball diff. Click here.

看来漂移的入门门槛真高呢，得先过英语四级才行……

确实文中的东西在很多老帖里都谈到了，但是这篇比较全面的总结了各个部分，还是非常不错的，很值得参考哦~~~谢谢LZ了

哪位好心人帮忙翻译一下么！像我这种老同志看见大块的英文就发懵……

哎!....

能力有限!

我晕。。。。。极度晕。。。。。很晕。。。。。。非常晕

小弟做了部分较重要的翻译：

Things to adjust when your car is UNDERSTEERING (no  particular order)) v$ c2 p. }/ z3 n以下是对于车辆转向不足时的调试（没有特定的顺序）
1.        TIRES/CAMBER (for Yokomo drift rings)轮胎和CAMBER角（限yokomo的车胎）
1.        More  camber in the front前轮加大CAMBER角度
2.        Less  camber in the rear后方减小CAMBER角度
2.        DROOP 垂度
1.        Increase  droop in the rear调整后轮使其更加的竖直
3.        CASTER caster角度
1.        Decrease  caster angle减小caster角度
4.        ACKERMAN 阿克曼角度
1.        Increase  Ackerman angle增大阿克曼角度
5.        TRACK WIDTH 轮距
1.        Decrease  in the front 减小前轮轮距
2.        Decrease  in the rear to account for low speed understeer 低速转向不足时，减小后轮轮距
3.        Increase  in the rear to account for high speed understeer高速转向不足时，怎大后轮轮距
6.        DIFFERENTIAL 差速器
1.        For  Ball Diffs 对于珠差
1.        Loosen  front ball diff 放松前差
2.        Tighten  rear ball diff加紧后差
2.        For  Front One-Ways 对于头单
1.        Tighten  rear ball diff加紧后差
3.        For  Center One-Ways 对于中单
1.        Loosen  front ball diff 放松前差
2.        Tighten  rear ball diff加紧后差
4.        For  Rear Spool (or Direct Drive for Tamiya Fans) 对于后直（或者田宫的车友的直轴习惯）
1.        Loosen  front ball diff放松前差
5.        For  Front Spool (or Direct Drive for Tamiya Fans) 对于前直
1.        Tighten  rear ball diff加紧后差
7.        ROLL CENTER/CAMBER LINKS 滚动中心/CAMBER角连接处
1.        Adjust  inner camber link position more towards the center of the chassis i.e. longer  camber link, in the front 把CAMBER连接处调整到更靠近中心的位置，也就是说，在前方加大CAMBER的连接长度
2.        Adjust  camber link so that it is more level, in the front调整CAMBER的连接处可以使其更加灵敏
8.        SHOCK POSITION 避震器的位置
1.        Lower  Shock Position 降低避震器的位置
1.        Move  inward towards the chassis on the front 前避震向底盘的中心移动
2.        Move  outward away from the chassis in the rear后避震向底盘的外部移动
2.        Upper  Shock Position 升高避震的位置
1.        Makeshock more laid down in the front (may be source of contention.  I knowin grip, laying it down more generally reduces body roll as the carturns.  However, drifting has less grips, so I think the moreprogressive feel of a laid down shock may give more grip, can someoneverify?)调整使得前避震更加倾斜（比较争议的设定）
2.        Make  shock more vertical in the rear调整使得后避震变得竖直
9.        SPRINGS 弹簧
1.        Softer  springs in the front前方弹簧较软
2.        Stiffer  springs in the rear后方弹簧较硬
10.        SHOCK OIL/PISTONS 避震油/避震肺
1.        Thinner  oil in the front/Larger piston holes in the front 前方避震的油较稀/前方使用大孔径的避震肺
2.        Thicker  oil in the rear/Smaller piston holes in the rear后方避震油较浓/使用小孔径避震肺
11.        TOE 束角
1.        Front  Toe 前束角
1.        More  toe-out更大的TOE OUT
2.        Rear  Toe 后束角
1.        Less  toe-in少量TOE IN
12.        ANTI-ROLL BAR 防倾杆
1.        Thicker  anti-roll bar in the rear 后方使用较强的防倾杆
2.        Thinner  anti-roll bar in the front前方使用较弱的防倾杆
13.        RIDE HEIGHT 车高
1.        Lower  ride height in the front 降低前方车高
2.        Higher  ride height in the rear升高后方车高